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In a pure sense, “container gardening” connotes a completely new concept created for, or evolving out of, contemporary architecture and its bold use of clean lines and unadorned space. These settings both benefit by and set off a display of plants, bringing many principles of modern interior decoration into play outdoors. Containers are an important part of the picture. They may be included in the architect’s or landscape architect’s plan, or added by the homeowner in the same way draperies and other decorations are added indoors.

Actually, plants have always been grown in outdoor “containers.” The window or balcony box is not new; neither is the stone or ceramic urn, or the recessed or raised garden bed on a patio or terrace. The newness is in the concept itself – a new kind of gardening that brings the landscape into the outdoor living area or up to the house, caters to today’s desire for constant change and flexibility, and provides opportunity for expression of creative individuality.

For every type of outdoor container there is a wide choice of suitable vines, hanging plants and landscape plant. And so they provide soft grace and refreshment for a Maine window box or a Texas patio, a metropolitan rooftop garden or a palatial California terrace, a small suburban outdoor living room or an Old World balcony. Large or small, bold or demure, alone or in combination with other plants, vines are indispensable to everyone who has reason to garden in containers – and nearly everyone has.

Advantages of Container Gardening

When there is no real garden, or little time to care for a garden, you can grow plants in outdoor containers and have the effect or feeling of a garden. When the garden area is limited, you can make it seem larger with containers against the house or on the wall. If you like to change or renew garden decor, containers give you flexibility. If you are away from home for long periods, but want a well-groomed garden on a day’s notice when you return, containers are ready and waiting to be filled with full-grown plants from the florist or nursery.

By gardening in containers people who live in rented houses or apartments can take their gardens when they move. By starting plants early indoors people who live where outdoor growing seasons are short can enjoy flowering plants from the first warm day to the first frost. And if the containers are movable, they can be whisked inside when early frost threatens, returned for an “Indian summer” that lengthens the flowering season.

In containers plants can be changed or rearranged so easily there is no need for monotony. You can experiment with unusual new varieties without risking a glaring gap if they don’t thrive. You can replace fading plants and have a summer-long succession of bloom. You can even use container-grown plants in or with garden beds – specimens for accent, or to fill gaps when garden plants fail, or to provide a background until newly planted shrubbery can mature. Or you can enjoy some types of container gardens or easy outdoor plants indoors in winter, move them outdoors in summer.

Container gardening often requires less time and trouble than flower beds. Watering is easier and faster; weeding is practically eliminated; gardening doesn’t get ahead of you and become a burden. You don’t need great quantities of soil or manure. And if you want a garden where cultural conditions are adverse, simply grow the plants in some out-of-the-way spot and set them in containers for temporary display; or buy plants fully grown, enjoy them while they look thriving, replace them when they fade.

For a greater understanding on the subject of easy outdoor plants. Join us http://www.plant-care.com/outdoor-planters-and-window-boxes.html.

One of the stout-hearted lilies found in Korea thriving among grasses and low-growing shrubs was Lilium amabile. Bulbs were first available in 1905. Amabile means pleasing or lovely. The single thing not pleasing is the somewhat offensive odor of the flowers which is not too apparent in the garden, but practically disqualifies this species for cutting material.

The stem rooting, white, oval shaped bulbs are somewhat pointed. Narrow leaves on two to three foot plants are fairly numerous but scattered. The reflexed blossoms of open martagon form, larger and heavier than those of Lilium pumilum (tenuifolium) vary from orange-red to brilliant red, densely spotted with black.

Seedlings with orange-yellow blossoms were first mentioned in 1933 and a yellow one a year later. Lilium amabile luteum, the yellow form, is as spotted as the red. A fine unspotted yellow, a rare treasure, appeared among a row of unlabeled lily seedlings in my garden in 1955. The lily books do not specifically mention unspotted yellows but do state that unspotted forms of L. amabile are occasionally found among seedlings.

Lilium amabile blooms in this area in late May and June. Bulbs are available, but it is an easy lily from seeds. When seedlings commence blooming, selections can be made for the more desirable good clear brilliant reds and bright yellows without orange. The plants are vigorous and robust growers and can tolerate somewhat dry conditions if necessary. In full bloom, they add bright spots of color to the center of borders in sun, or better yet, in partial shade. Mature bulbs of both the red and the yellow forms send up fine sturdy stems with tiers of blossoms.

`The Duchess’ may be the first hybrid of Lilium amabile to be reported. It was originated by F. L. Skinner of Dropmore, Manitoba, Canada, and is a cross of L. amabile with an elegans variety. The color is saffron yellow with many brown spots. The texture of the blossoms is thick and waxlike. The plants grow three feet and more in height. Blossoms which are almost flat and face outward are produced freely. This hybrid was introduced in 1943. It appears to be even more vigorous than its parents and increases rapidly.

Lilium amabile has been used in other crosses and proved a good parent. J. C. Taylor from Ontario worked a number of years to produce ‘Cardinal.’ The initial idea was to produce a lily similar in color to L. amabile with the same early flowering habit in combination with the vigor, robust growth, and stem bulbs of L. tigrinum. Since the latter bloomed later than L. amabile it was necessary to force L. tigrinum into bloom early in a greenhouse. L. amabile was used as the pollen parent and from this cross seeds were secured. Over 150 plants were grown to blooming size. The one plant that was selected as having the qualities desired was named ‘Cardinal.’ The nodding, brilliant red blossoms with reflexed petals are somewhat smaller in size but spotted like the tiger lily. This plant will surely make your garden attractive together with artificial grasses.

Another lily produced was ‘Waxwing.’ Again Lilium amabile was the pollen parent with a Philadelphicum hybrid as seed parent. ‘Waxwing’ grows 3 1/2 to four feet tall, an easy and reliable lily. The spotted outward facing blossoms are cadmium yellow in color.

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Factors other than light affect the well-being of foliage plants grown in pots, tubs and other containers. To insure success you must make every effort to make the whole environment agreeable. Attention to one factor will not do.

Temperature is an obvious matter to consider. Here you must differentiate between natural temperatures and those obtained by artificial heating. High temperature levels of summer (which is the natural growing season of most plants) are ordinarily accompanied by long days, superior light and favorable atmospheric humidity. Such temperatures are not harmful to most house plants we discuss. Even the “cool room” kinds thrive in temperatures of 70 to 90 in summer.

But high temperatures maintained artificially in winter as well are an entirely different matter. The only plants that ordinarily stand these well are natives of the low-level tropics – the Amazon basin, tropical west Africa and similar regions. These kinds get along well without any winter season of rest. Some find the low relative humidity of the atmosphere that is induced by artificial heating difficult to stand; others do not seem to mind the dry air of American homes and apartments.

When referring to temperatures in general, we are concerned with those that prevail during the period of the year when artificial heating is ordinarily used, and, unless otherwise stated, with night temperatures. Daytime temperatures may be five to ten degrees higher than those recommended for nighttime.

Cool-room plants succeed best when the night temperatures are between 40 and 50. They are useful in sunrooms and similar locations. Many may be stored over winter in light cellars and be used outdoors in summer on porches, terraces or patios.

Medium-cool-room or intermediate-temperature plants appreciate a 50 to 58 night temperature and are useful for many indoor locations that are not excessively warm or cold. Temperatures such as these often prevail near windows of ordinary living rooms. It is considerably warmer away from the windows, of course. It is wise to test the proposed location for the plants with a thermometer, as this often reveals a temperature range much different from that expected. It is important to know the temperature of the indoor location if you are bringing plants indoors.

Ordinary room temperatures of 60 to 70 at night are best suited for really tropical plants. Such kinds are useful for rooms and parts of rooms where normal living-room temperatures obtain.

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Shady locations pose special problems when it comes to furnishing them with plants – problems that are challenging, but surmountable; problems that for happy solutions depend upon the selection of suitable kinds of plants.

Around the home, on porches, patios and terraces and in sunrooms and window gardens there, are likely to be places where light is comparatively poor, but such places really need decorative vegetation to provide a homelike, lived-in atmosphere. Wisely chosen plants provide the answer for successful decoration of such problem spots.

Here, we will take a look into the uses of foliage plants in and about the home, for they offer by far the largest selection of kinds that prefer or endure shade. And, best of all, the kinds will look right in shaded places – they are plants. that belong where light is subdued.

One of the subtleties of successful gardening is to employ plants and flowers where they seem to belong. Shaded places kept aglow with blooming plants call for constant replacements, and that means over-decoration. It is a happier solution to use plants that thrive in shade.

In most of the locations we are considering, the plants will be grown in pots or tubs or in movable or built-in boxes of one kind or another that currently are called “planters.” Such container-grown specimens require adequate cultural care – attention in matters of watering, fertilizing and keeping them clean and free of grime and pests. In recent years the advantageous employment of artificial illumination for foliage house plants has received attention from experimenters, and positive recommendations may now be made with confidence.

Artificial lighting is of great help in compensating for lack of sufficient daylight. Foliage plants that are tolerant of poor light have been kept in good condition for a year or more by the use of electric light alone or of electric light with but the smallest amount of natural light.

Fluorescent light, or fluorescent light together with some incandescent illumination, is most satisfactory. Incandescent light alone, in adequate intensities, produces too much heat for the well-being of the plants.

Fluorescent light alone, on the other hand, tends to give a cold appearance that is less flattering to foliage plants than when used with some of the yellower rays of incandescent bulbs. This is something to consider if you are concerned with specially lighted displays of foliage plants in homes, stores, restaurants, offices or theaters. In the average home you will be more interested in making the best of the lights you already have.

The thing to remember is that any type of lighting like low voltage landscape lighting (other than ultraviolet ray lamps) benefits foliage plants that lack sufficient natural daylight. The more intense the light (provided a harmful amount of heat is not produced) and the more hours each day the plants are submitted to light the better they will be.

Experiments at Rutgers University established the fact that some foliage plants would remain in good condition for twelve months or more if they received as little as 25 foot-candles of light for sixteen hours each day. It should be noted, however, that the kinds that lived under these low intensities grew better and lived longer when the intensity of the illumination was increased to 50 foot-candles for sixteen hours each day. Also, additional kinds could be grown under these conditions. Still further improvement was noted and a still greater variety could be grown when the light intensity was held at 100 foot-candles sixteen hours each day.

In the average home, only rarely will artificial illumination equal these higher intensities. Recommended levels for reading are 20 foot-candles and for sewing or workbench illumination 40 foot-candles. The advantage you can gain from ordinary home lighting is the placing near lights at night of those plants that get no more than the minimum illumination for their kind from natural daylight. The combination of low-intensity artificial lighting at night and minimum or somewhat better than minimum light intensity during the day. will combine to produce the effect of stronger daylight or longer days.

For more information on low voltage landscape lighting. Drop by today at http://www.plant-care.com/landscape-lighting.html.

In time I hope to find the perfect patio furniture covers for my patio set. I’ve done a bit of hunting so far and I am not going to give up until I find success. Now that summer is around the corner, my kids want to have every meal outside. That means that almost every evening after I get home from work, I’m washing the top of my patio table with a brush and a bucket of warm soapy water.

The other reason I wanted patio furniture covers is that the sun and the rain and the snow can really damaged the finish on my wooden furniture. I have some lovely furniture that looks teak but isn’t teak. I got a great deal on it at Canadian Tire a few years ago. It has really held up well and I’m pleased with it. However, it can show some age.

Every autumn we have a fall clean up tradition that involves the whole family and a few family friends. We spend the day outside coiling hoses and trimming back perennials, etc. My job (or perhaps I’m the only one prepared to do it) is to shine up the patio furniture so it looks great in the spring. Each year, I lightly sand the table and chairs, re-apply a thing coat of stain and then rub some outside furniture oil into the wood. The patio furniture really looks fresh and new afterwards and I know it can withstand the coming snows. Having some new outdoor patio furniture covers might allow me to re-finish the table and chairs every second year.

I have spoken to a lot of people about buying covers and it would appear that I might be the only one in my circle of friends that has ever thought seriously about these covers. Furthermore, I have gone to a handful of patio furniture shops and very few of them sell covers for the furniture. The covers that were available were either the wrong size or far too expensive for my needs. Most of the staff at the patio furniture shop only thought about covering the furniture for the winter. One guy who was trying to be helpful suggested I just use a table cloth for family dinners.

Given that I have thought of new patio furniture covers for almost a year now, I have been able to pin point what I need to get out of the covers. I’m ok with covering the furniture with a tarp during the harsh winter so the patio furniture covers don’t need to stand up to snow. The covers need to be water resistant and washable. They need to be a neutral but pretty colour. I have my heart set on sage but I’m fairly flexible in the regard. They need to be inexpensive. In my mind, I should be able to cover 4 chairs and a five foot circular patio table for under $85US.

Buying outdoor patio furniture covers can be harder than you think. When you factor in price, colour, and quality you greatly narrow the field. Furthermore, I find the covers are less available than I would have thought. I am seriously considering having these covers custom made. I’m going to write articles and blog on patio furniture covers until I finally find a set that suits me.

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Trellis – A “lath screen” used to support ornamental vines against walls and other vertical surfaces where the vine can not or should not climb on its own. If not in front of a wall or building, a trellis should be adjacent to one; it is seldom used alone.

Trellises are available, or can be constructed, in many sizes, types, and designs. The choice is usually governed by the style of architecture and landscaping. For a heavy vine, make sure the trellis is sturdy and long-lasting.

Because many vines make close growth, with matted, twisting stems, they need free circulation of air on all sides. Don’t set a trellis flush with a wall. Use brackets, angle irons, or wood blocks to hold it at least four inches – preferably six – away from the wall. And unless the wall behind is brick, stone, or masonry that will not need painting and repair, install a trellis so that it is not difficult to remove it. Hinges will often do the trick. A light, small structure can be set up so that it will easily swing back or out on inconspicuous hinges. A larger, heavier trellis may be equipped with sturdy door hinges; when the center pin is slipped out, the whole thing can be lifted out and set aside.

A vine-covered trellis can be used to frame a door or window, to soften bleak areas around garage doors. It is not usually the object of interest, but a supporting one just like a potted plant such as dracaena deremensis warneckii. But in winter, when the stems of a deciduous vine are bare or a herbaceous variety has died back to the ground, it should not stick out like a sore thumb.

For annuals and herbaceous vines, a temporary trellis is sometimes a good idea. Fish-net types, made of strong cord, will last several seasons if taken down and stored during the winter. Or fashion an unobtrusive trellis with plastic line strung through holes or eyes in a lightweight but strong wooden frame.

Find out more about dracaena deremensis warneckii. Join us http://www.plant-care.com/dracaena-warneckii-roots-i809.html.

If we want to add an extension to our present house; or we want to build a building on our properties; there are a couple of steps we have to do first in order to start a building construction project.

The minute we decide we want to do major renovations to an existing building whereby we will be altering a few things in the style and form of said structure; we have to be prepared to take on the role of laborer; financier and head of the project.

APPLICATION TO CONSTRUCT AND DEVELOP PROPERTY

Prior to starting the building construction venture; we need to submit an application to our local government where we will be stating the type of building project we will be undertaking.

In said application, we simply have to state the purpose of the construction, show our lay-out of the design; state all the materials that we will be using and ascertain that the building procedure will be safe for everyone concerned; even the environment.

Depending on the location of the property; there might be zoning codes that the local government may impose.

Once we have received the endorsement for our application to construct on and develop our property; we can then move on to get a certificate from the local government to start building.

CERTIFICATE TO BUILD AND CONSTRUCT

This certificate will give us clearance to commence on the construction project. Again, we have to show the lay-out of our design which will be assessed by a professional surveyor who may be selected by the local authorities.

The surveyor’s job is to check that building codes have been followed and that the minimum compulsory criteria for the standard of the structure were also followed.

We should familiarize ourselves with the different building codes as these may depend on the kind of edifice that we will be erecting or developing and renovating.

Once we have gotten the certification to construct; together with the approved application; this is the time that we can start on our building venture. We should remember that any alterations that we may wish to incorporate after we have secured both the approval of our application and certificate to build; we may have to undergo the same process once more.

We should likewise be ready to furnish copies of the lay-out at the different stages of our project.

Robert Devalt is quite interested in different types of paving and discuss building construction and many other things on his site. If you want to know something about paving, you should spend some time with Robert.

categories: paving,patio,concrete,asphalt,driveway,pavement,contractor,home improvement,home,garden

Paper lanterns usually come disassembled, so you will need to put them together before using them. Do not worry, for this is really easy to do. That being said, do not rush into assembling them as soon as you get your lantern. You should first read the instructions or a guide like this, as they are fragile.

They are simple to work with, and they are usually globe shaped. Because they are globe shaped, they are easy to pack flat. And, because they are packed flat, they always retain this natural tendency to become flat again, so you must use an expander which is usually provided. The cord and socket, however, are not usually provided unless you buy a kit.

When you insert the expander, you need to pay extra attention to what you are doing. Remember that the paper lantern is made of paper, so it can rip very easily. There are two holes in the lantern, as you will notice; the bigger hole is the top. Now, notice that there are grooves on the top and bottom of the expander. These grooves will touch the edges of the circles in the lantern. Put the expander through the top of the lantern and hook the bottom circle onto the bottom grooves. Then, pull/expand the lantern so that the top circle is supported up by the top grooves.

It is time to run the cord. To get an exact picture, plug the cord in first. If the cord will be run on the ceiling, hooks are the best choice. Tape will work, but you must use a lot of it; it also looks incredibly tacky. Start at the outlet and work your way to the socket, and it is critical that the socket hangs straight down when you are finished. If it does not, readjust until it does. Do not leave this step out!

Put the light bulb in the socket and screw it in, but unplug the cord from outlet first! Do not get electrocuted. The light bulb should not have a higher wattage than the maximum recommended for your cord. The usual is sixty, but higher wattage cords are available. Be sure you know your max before installing a light bulb. When you have the bulb screwed in, you are ready to attach the lantern. This is an easy step: insert the bulb, and have the lantern rest on the socket. You will be able to figure out how to get it to stay.

Now, you are ready to turn it on. Presto! You have a beautiful, dim light to enjoy. Paper lanterns make the perfect decoration for the outdoors or for a romantic evening; they can add a nice Eastern theme as well. Plus, they are cheaper than traditional light fixtures, and they can be easily replaced if something should happen to them.

Cody Scholberg, a lighting expert, writes at the Paper Lanterns Guide about paper lanterns and their uses as lighting sources. Learn how to use paper lanterns safely.

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Would you like to find out what those-in-the-know have to say about garden storage sheds? The information in the article below comes straight from well-informed experts with special knowledge about free shed kits.

Garden sheds are traditionally used to stock garden and household utensils plus other household items, but many homeowners have found other purposes for it. It could be used as a workshop for crafting or construction work, since some activities can be quite messy and they are better finished outside the home. Garden sheds must be easy reachable from any part of the garden. And, secondly, but not less important, they should be well maintained. Garden sheds could be built of different materials. They may also differ in their shape and size.

Garden sheds are also considered as valuable and useful garden fixture. You can also buy a build your own garden sheds or gazebo CD, which allows you to create one on your own. Garden sheds need to look good themselves, or they will take away from the appearance of the garden in which they are built. Garden sheds are primarily used to store gardening equipment. Garden sheds are the answer. They are attractive, durable, easy to assemble, and are available at any major garden supply store.

The information about garden storage sheds presented here will do one of two things: either it will reinforce what you know about free shed kits or it will teach you something new. Both are good outcomes.

Timber garages normally feature wooden hinged doors. Garages are widely used as workshops and utility storage buildings. Timber has a 12yr warranty against wood rot and insect damage. Plants are another alternative to make your storage shed more appealing. Stunted plants, flower stems or trellises hanging from the walls will blend your shed into nature. Plans to unveil new two bay garage designs are in the works. Jamaica cottage has been building garden sheds from rough sawn lumber since 1995.

Plan your space well by putting it down on paper. Draw everything to scale. Planning and preparing for the construction process is a highly important stage of any building. And building a garden shed is not an exception. Plans for building a storage shed can be downloaded from the internet. With step by step, easy to follow instructions, even a novice will building in no time. Plans contain step by step instructions and ensure that you end up with a highly functional and stylish building. And try not to limit yourself with time.

Garden sheds can make a hell lot of disparity as it gives an extra look and make your outer space or the exterior look healthier. There are atypical kinds of garden sheds, as it is seen that as individual distinction occur so there are a range of kinds of it and as per requirement you can use it. Garden sheds aren’t just available in multitudinous styles, they’re available in a range of materials too. Metal, plastic and wood; variously coloured, shaded and finished – all ready to add the finishing touch to your garden. Garden sheds have been constructed of wood for many past years. Thus, today’s industry provides hundreds of types of materials that could be used for building garden sheds along with other purposes.

There’s a lot to understand about garden storage sheds. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.

About the Author: GardenShedSearch.com provides free information about outdoor storage sheds and the latest news on garden shed kits. You have full permission to reprint this article provided this paragraph and the hyperlinks are kept unchanged.

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Have you ever tried fall sowing flower seeds? It works wonderfully with all the hardy flowers and even with some of the hardy annuals such as larkspur, cornflower, nigella, calendula, and any of the others that normally self sow in your locality. And as I have said before, I like to sow my seeds in pots so I can handle them as individual units.

Three-inch plastic flower pots are plenty large enough for my place, but you may want a four-inch pot. I fill the pot half full with a mixture of soil, sand and peat sifted through a quarter-inch sieve. Then I put in an inch of equal parts sand and peat and sow my seeds in this. It’s weed free and practically sterile and gives marvelous germination. I honestly never have bothered with treating the seeds with any disinfectant, it works so well this other way. Some of the perennials that you may want to order now to sow later this month (November) might include the cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), delphinium, gaillardia, dwarf bleeding heart, and hardy candytuft.

Honeysuckles

The honeysuckles are an interesting group of plants. Of course everyone knows the common vine of the Japanese honeysuckle. But all too few are acquainted with the many bush honeysuckles. If you like birds and want a big, tall, fast-growing honeysuckle, plant an Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera Maackii). They get 20 to 25 feet high and at least as broad. We sat in the shade of ours the third summer. Just like our pygmy date palm in the garden.

It’s tall, lanky, and has white flowers in the spring which drop as they turn yellow. In the mid fall the berries turn red. The cedar waxwings love them – so do the cardinals and any other seed eating bird that’s around during the winter. The birds drop seeds here and there so you always have half a dozen or so seedlings to give away to friends and neighbors. For flowers you will probably want the red flowered Zabell honeysuckle.

For a fast growing bush with red berries in summer – the Morrow honeysuckle. Both of these get about six or seven feet high. The Morrow will spread out to ten or 12 feet and it’s very fast growing. But practically all honeysuckles are big bushes that you would not want to plant in front of the house or even too close to a ranch type house.

Now is the time to answer your questions on pygmy date palm. Visit our evergrowing library at http://www.plant-care.com/phoenix-roebelenii-field-i809.html.

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